Lisbon; Tuesday, 22 August, 2006

Some of the temperature may have gone, but if anything the conditions were far more unpleasant today as the humidity was getting higher rapidly and for the first time ever I experience the effects of pollution as my eyes refused to stop stinging and watering when I was outside, but cleared up instantly when I went into air-conditioned buildings.

I wandered down to the station at Cais do Sodré and caught the train out to Belém, figuring that being right by the river would be more pleasant than in the city centre.

First stop was the Monument das Descobertas. Built as part of a world exhibition held in Belém in the 1940’s it shows some of the most important figures in Portuguese maritime history, topped by Vasco de Gama and Henry the Navigator (the two that everyone has heard of). The monument is hollow inside and houses two exhibition floors, one which tells the story behind each of the figures, and one which tells the story of the exhibition and building of the tower. You can also, as I did, catch the lift to the very top of the monument and go onto the roof for stunning views across Belém, the Ponte 25 de Abril (Looks like the Golden gate bridge), Cristo Rei and Lisbon.

Next stop, a hefty 10 minutes walk along the river front was the tower of Belém or Torre de Belém. Originally built in the middle of the river as a defensive structure it sort of lost its purpose when the course of the river shifted after the 1755 earthquake, and it now finds itself a couple of metres off the bank at Belém. The tower is one of the most famous symbols of Portugal and once again offers stunning views over the surrounding area from its roof.

From the Torre de Belém I caught the tram back a couple of stops to the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos. The church is quite impressive, but absolutely heaving with tourists. The cloister is even more impressive and as you have to pay to get into it quite a lot quieter. The cloister is bizarrely two storeys high and includes an exhibition which charts the history of monastery, Lisbon and Portugal over the last 500 years. You can also access from here the upper choir of the church, which gives you stunning view inside the church, and of the herds of tourists below!

Just outside the monastery is the starting point for the Belém land train which runs around the town centre taking in all the main sights before climbing into the hills above the town for more views of the river, before returning back to the monastery.

I wandered back to the tram stop and caught the tram back to Lisbon and wandered down to the Panteão Nacional (or the Church of Santa Engrácia to give it its religious title).

The Panteão is the most important church in the country and is where some of the leading lights in Portuguese history are laid to rest. In the main body of the church, the tombs of the country’s greatest Poet lies along side that of Vasco de Gama and Prince Henry the Navigator. Inside rooms are the tombs of more important figures.

You can climb the stairs (or take the lift) to the 2nd floor for views from the gallery over the centre of the church and up to the dome. Continuing up the stairs you reach the base of the dome and the outside terrace from where there are yet more stunning views of Lisbon.

By the time I got back down to the bottom of the church it was time head back to the hotel, pick up my luggage and head for the airport.