St Austell; Sunday, 24 September, 2006

There are two major issues I have with Cornwall. One is the fact that the public transport, whilst reliable, isn't particularly regular, especially on a Sunday. First train south from St Austell on a Sunday isn't until gone 10 and the period between busses can be measured in Archaeological ages. The other problem is the total lack of any left luggage facilities, anywhere. There were none in Penzance; there are none in St Austell, Truro or Falmouth. In the end I spent the entire day lugging around a backpack with three days clothes, books, wash bag and other related paraphernalia.

There are two major issues I have with Cornwall. One is the fact that the public transport, whilst reliable, isn't particularly regular, especially on a Sunday. First train south from St Austell on a Sunday isn't until gone 10 and the period between busses can be measured in Archaeological ages. The other problem is the total lack of any left luggage facilities, anywhere. There were none in Penzance; there are none in St Austell, Truro or Falmouth. In the end I spent the entire day lugging around a backpack with three days clothes, books, wash bag and other related paraphernalia.

I arrived in Falmouth (just 20 odd miles from St Austell) at a little after 12:30, more than two hours after leaving the hotel (If it wasn't for all the hills it might just have been quicker to have walked.) From Falmouth Docks station it was a short, if hearty walk, up hill to Pendennis Castle. Built by Henry VIII the castle remained in active service until 1956 when it was handed to what is now English Heritage. The castle is of the same design, and building programme as Portland, Deal and Walmer castles (See Weymouth and Days Out), and of St Mawes, it's sister that sits the other side of the Fal providing an almost impenetrable fortress across the harbour.

Having looked around the castle I wandered down into Falmouth and caught the ferry across the river to St Mawes and the castle there. Unlike Pendennis which is high on a cliff, St Mawes is almost at sea level, which meant it could fire cannons that would hole a ship on its waterline. The castle is also the only building on the site, unlike Pendennis which has had many extra buildings added and earth embankments built.

After looking around the castle, and a short wander around the town I walked back to the harbour and caught the ferry back across to Falmouth. I had a wander through Falmouth for a while, before heading back to the station and Truro.

By the time I arrived in Truro, the capital of Cornwall, and it’s only city, it was gone six, so everything had closed. However, I had a pleasant wander through the streets and took some photos of the Cathedral and city centre. I stopped for a bit to eat and had a further wander in the dusk, before climbing back up to the station for the short (hour and a half) wait for the sleeper, desperately trying not to fall asleep on the platform.